Sunday 7 October 2012

Wow Saigon!

Now this is a city that buzzes! Here is my list of things to do:

SEE
- Presidential palace: impressive with much history but the interior is nothing spectacular. They play a short video in the basement explaining the last 150years of history ending wi a long segment of Vietnam's struggle against the "American Imperialists". The photo gallery is quite interesting, also in the basement
- War Remnants museum: previously known as Meseum of American War Crimes. The US doesn't come off well here once again. In fact, it's an excellent museum that can easily take up 3-4 hours. It's packed but can handle the crowds very well since its organised and well laid out. Be warned that this is super intense - I saw quite a few visitors in tears half way through. The crowd is probably 50-50 Asian and European tourists.
- Jade Emperor Pagoda: this is a functioning pagoda used for prayers so no fee for entry but its out of the way, off the tourist trail. Make sure you head here because inside this tiny little, dark chamber is an incredibly impressive sight. The Chinese influence is clearly evident but the exterior simplicity and interior awesomeness is amusing.
- the French quarter: this is the fancy part of town which houses Notre Dame, the palace, post office, etc. Remarkable contrast to the remaining 90% of Saigon and oh so French!
- Riverside view overlooking District 1. New Saigon lies beyond the river connected by a 4 lane highway that lies empty for most part as the 2 wheelers cramp into one lane and the occasional Toyota SUV zooms past. This is ex-pat land.
- Tao Dan park: in the morning come along to the coffee shop in the south west corner and watch the old men enjoy their birds...not euphemism, they actually bring along their pet birds in cages and hang them up so you see 20-30 cages with different birds that sing in the morning as their owners chat and drink coffee along with the sun rise. The women practice a slow form of martial arts which is their work out. Younger people play badminton, martial arts and even dance. A real pleasure watching locals enjoy their patch of grass since personal gardens attached to ones own home are unheard of.

DO
- motobike tour of Saigon (XO or Vietnam Vespa). This is THE way to traverse the city. 2 wheeles are like swarms of bees zipping past and around slower, obstructive cars. Quite a remarkable sight.
- take a local bus. Very easy to figure out how it all works. Fast, cheap and reliable.
- walk down Dong Khoi from Notre Dame to the river


EAT
Just about anywhere along the road will be magic!. A few shacks/holes in the wall that were recommended to me and proved to be fantastic, are:

- Pho Hoa, 260 Pasteur St, District 3
- Pho Anh, 10A Ky Dong, St
- a shack with no name, at the intersection of Cach Mang Thang Tam and Bac Hai, at the corner of  Le Thi Rieng Park- they do "pancakes" or " sizzling cakes" called Banh Xeo.

In general, grab a map, keep your rain gear to hand, bring walking shoes and just walk! It's fascinating. Checkout shops, watch what people are eating along the road, see the various historical/religious sites. Fun 3 days.

I didn't bother going to some of the major tourist spots such as Ben Thahn market.





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